Outline
Our trip to Taiwan was a quick 5 nights/6 days on our way through to the Philippines. We arrived into Taipei at the airport in the evening and proceeded through to immigration. A few questions from the border agent regarding our intentions and the duration of our stay and we were cleared. Snapping a photo and a finger print scan in exchange for a visa exempt passport stamp, 90 days for Canadian tourists. Much of the recent history can be summarized by this stamp in three letters R.O.C, followed by "Taiwan" in brackets.
Admittedly, I didn't know much about the history of Taiwan, or initially what the acronym even meant. Though I found it odd that the name I knew the nation as was inputted with brackets. The deep history of conflict and struggle dating back beyond World War Two would soon be revealed in our travels and research.
I'll divide what we learned into two sections, early history, leading up until the 20th century, and modern, everything that has occurred since 1900.
Early History
Early Settlers
Initially the island was what we consider primitive and tribal. People have occupied Taiwan for thousands of years living agricultural lives along the lush coastline and forests. Lying close to powerful and rich China, they were "too close to be different, but too far to be the same", as one 1998 PBS documentary put it. A guide had told us that early Chinese and southern seafarers like the Polynesians settled in Taiwan establishing what are now known as the "Taiwanese aboriginals". One even stating that areas like the Philippines were occupied by the sea faring tribes of Taiwan, though it is certainly more complex than this. For the most part Taiwan was left to its own affairs, influenced by the world around it, but dominated by none.
Formosa - European Colonization of the Dutch & Spanish
To my surprise, China was not the first to have any significant development in the area. Han China had small migrations but nothing of significance. By the 17th century the story of global affairs was one of exploration and colonialism, primarily by the Europeans. The island would come to have the name "Formosa" given to it by the Dutch and Spanish colonizers arriving shortly after the beginning of the century. Today, one can still see remnants of their influence amongst the flashing lights and traffic. Buildings like Fort San Domingo in Taipei's Tamsui District still exist as a relic of their European past. The fort sits high upon the coastal hills, around the tip of the country and boasts a vibrant red colour. Standing at its gates you get the feeling of perceived superiority and strength.
Neighbourly Interest - China
The growing reach of Europe's colonial arms awoke China to the evident value of Formosa. The Chinese gained control of the island for themselves, initially with the Ming dynasty holding some territory before the Qing dynasty manage a stronghold from the late 1680's to 1895. Here Taiwan's culture connected with the Mainland's web. Today its temples resemble those of China superbly detailing Chinese and Taiwanese folklore alongside each other. The food shares many of China's dishes. Notably a fabulous Xiao Long Bao we had at Taipei's 'Hang Zhou Xiao Long Tang Bao', and traditional tea ceremonies which can be simulated today at place like Wu Wei Tsao Tea in Taichung City or A-MEI in Juifen. Taiwan takes its cuisine and tea seriously.
Transfer of Ownership - Japan
China and Japan clashed in war at the end of the 19th century. The struggle of Asia's two great powers resulted in a Japanese victory. As part of the Japanese terms at the end of the first Sino-Japanese War they gained control of the island, and would control it into modern history. It was a period of Japanese strength and strict rule of their colonies.
Modern History
The World at War - Taiwan Fights For Japan
At times the small and humble nations of the world are dragged into the affairs of global superpowers. Falling under the reign of the Japanese, meant that the Taiwanese people reluctantly had to fight and support the Japanese Imperial Army. As the Japanese brought further forces into China, they were forced to cheer and celebrate Japanese victory over the Chinese. Imagine being in that position as a humble citizen. Ruled by China for over two centuries. You don't have your independence, but inevitably your daily life and entire culture is woven with the connections forged between two countries coming together. You know the governmental restrictions and expectations, you may even work for them. Some people intermarry, and their Taiwanese children grow up alongside those of the Chinese. Those times had a binding shared suffering felt much stronger than the occasional funeral and tragedies we sometimes endure today. Then imagine, your rulers have lost, and the day comes for you to meet your new boss. He too came by sea but far enough that you've likely had little to no interaction with him. They are Asian but have their own distinct appearance, wider than the difference you had with the Chinese. They rule their own way and have their own set of guiding principles. Anything you've gained for your family from your adherence to their predecessor is now at question or lost for generations. They rule you harshly, and when the time comes you or your sons will have to fight for them against these people. You will be forced by fear of brutal persecution to chant and cheer for their victories standing alongside those that are both Taiwanese and Chinese alike.
Suddenly, Japan's presence in the war ends with the atomic bombs of a far off New World nation. Negotiations begin to decide who should rule you next.
End of World War Two - Taiwan Returned to China
You've been Japan's now for fifty years, and after it all you're returning to the hand of your former master. Its 1945, much has changed in the world and in Asia's politics. The Chinese know you fought and cheered for Japan even if it was against your will, and your current generation has been moulded by a different hand. They teach you their language and history in the classroom. You've been held to their behavioural standards. Across the sea China remains in a civil war that has been going on for decades. Now the acronym on the passport stamp becomes highly relevant:
R.O.C - Republic of China
The supposedly, democratic party of China headed by Chang Kai Shek. His opposition, Mao Zedong of the People's Republic of China (P.R.C), communists. The fight is conducted with propaganda and full warfare. Zedong and the communist party reign victorious and Kai Shek and his supporters are forced out of the Mainland to Taiwan. A guide mentioned to us that the average Taiwanese people of the times were not so concerned with the affairs of the Mainland. News would have been brought from town to town, but for the most part they focused on their business, farming and fishing primarily. The political battles would be fought by the elite, and the average citizen would pay the price.
Republic Forced to Taiwan
In Taiwan, Kai Shek and his party had every intention of returning to the Mainland with a force to win back the country from the communists. Both parties claiming rightful ownership to the nation. A guide mentioned to us that an unchanged piece of the Taiwanese constitution still lists Taiwan, Mainland China, and parts of Mongolia as the R.O.C's territory. This would eventually be abandoned, but the Republic and Communist fracture would only widen shaping the two as separate countries. Speaking with people here one gets a strong sense on the importance that independence means to the Taiwanese. Our guide spoke with conviction in this regard. They are unique and separate, not merely a younger sibling to their older Chinese brothers and sisters. They have their own history and heritage that is too complicated to label as merely part of China's.
Martial Law - The White Terror in the midst of the Cold War
Not long into his reign Kai Shek instituted a martial law that would last from 1949 to 1987 into his sons reign. It came to be known as the White Terror. People were executed, freedom of speech abolished, and the daily Taiwanese activities were watched closely by secret police, not so democratic. You had to be extremely cautious even when speaking in private. Otherwise you may disappear in the night. Our guide was very firm about her dislike for Kai Shek and the harm he did to his people. She told us about a park in Taoyuan where hundreds of his statues were relocated. Taking them from public squares, schools, and government buildings slowly trying to move beyond his harsh legacy. The people don't want to be reminded of his reign or to celebrate his place in history. They don't support his ideals or believe he was even Taiwanese. Our guide made this clear, "he's Chinese". He believed Taiwan was part of China, at the time he just held merely an island of it.
The international community was torn on how to conduct its foreign relations in the area. Initially the U.S. supported the R.O.C as a beacon of democracy in the region pledging assurance of their protection. They were at the table in the U.N. and were generally recognized, traded with, and given aid to restore their livelihood. Then the politics changed, the mighty U.S. umbrella was blown west starting with Nixon and ending with the formal decision by Carter to recognize Communist China over Taipei at the end of the 1970's. The Taiwanese must have been devastated by the announcement. Their supporting superpower didn't just pull aid, but derecognized the legitimacy of their nation. It led to isolation and an unfortunate U.N. withdrawal in the early part of the decade. A fact that Taiwan is currently still trying to correct with increased participation. China still laid claim to them for a long time and emphasized it publicly.
Current Era - Democratization
Through this tough history, which I have merely scratched the surface of, Taipei continued to slowly reform their government. The people were given a voice, international relationships improved. In the 1990's formal democratic elections were held, and constitutional amendments are still being made. Though the nation has a long way to go, it has seemed to liberate itself significantly. Tourists are here all around Taipei. Alcohol can be consumed on the streets, festivals are held, and multiculturalism is celebrated. The cities of Taipei and Taichung were high in cleanliness from our observations and with very reliable public transportation. The people are kind, and willing to help a stranger. The locals and tourists all converge at legendary night markets into the later part of the night. It is a special and unique place.
Returning back to the airport to receive our exit stamp we had a greater appreciation for how far this nation has come. Learning about what this resilient nation has endured has been inciteful, and a bit emotional. We have much to be grateful for in our imperfect history, and in our current times. I do not doubt that this is Taiwan's greatest era, and I would encourage you if you have the chance to learn and experience it for yourself.
Main Sources
Tug of War: The story of Taiwan. Written, produced and directed by Judith Vecchione, PBS, New South Wales, 1998.
General retreat. Written by Chris Taylor, Taipei Times, Taiwan, 2000
Taiwan renews push for United Nations participation. Written by Scott Morgan, Taipei Times, Taiwan, 2017
United States announces that it will recognize communist China, Written by History.com editors, History, 2018
Like it Formosa - Taipei Free Walking Tour - A guided tour of Taipei by a government supported tourist group.